kimkat3462k Place-names in the Parish of
Cynwil Gaio, Carmarthenshire. Celtic Eisteddfod, University College Of Wales,
Aberystwyth, 1901. By "Dyffryn Cothi”. Carmarthen Journal. 17 Mai 1901.
18-09-2020
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Gwefan
Cymru-Catalonia Place-names in the Parish
of Cynwil Gaio, Carmarthenshire.
http://pub5.bravenet.com/guestbook/391211408/
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(delwedd 8112) |
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Fersiwn FDG-PDF:
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Carmarthen
Journal. 17 Mai 1901. Place-names
in the Parish of Cynwil Gaio, Carmarthenshire. CELTIC
EISTEDDFOD, UNIVERSITY COLLEGE OF WALES, ABERYSTWYTH, 1901. [BY
"DYFFRYN COTHI”]. PARISH
OF CYNWIL GAIO. This
parish, situated as it is in the very north of Carmarthenshire, far removed
from railways and other conveniences of modern civilization, deserves to be
better known to the world at large on
account of its historical interest, its natural beauty its mountains and fine
rocks on the north frequented by buzzards, ravens, and foxes, And which
afford pasture only for sheep and ponies its beautiful valleys of the Twrch
and the Cothi on the south, where the goldfinch, the bullfinch, the
greenfinch, and the rare kingfisher haunt every year, and there rear their
young. On the north the country is bare and bleak, on the seuth beautifully
wooded, and it altogether affords as great a variety of scenery as is
possible on so small a scale. The rivers Twrch and Cothi are noted for trout,
sewin, and salmon, and much resorted to by anglers. Caio
is the largest parish but one in the county, with an area of 20,186 ½ acres. It is bounded by the parishes of
Cilycwm and Llanwrda on the east; on the west by Llansawel (church dedicated
to Sawyl Benuchel), Pencarreg, and Llanycrwys (Church of the Cross dedicated
to St. David) on the north by Cellan, Llanfairclydogau, and Llanddewibrefi,
the three being in Cardiganshire on the south by Llansadwrn and Talley. The
last is a very interesting parish. In its village — Talley, Tal-y-llychau —
situated, as the name implies, above the lakes, there are the remains of an
old abbey. Some of the arches which supported the central tower still stand,
and are of majestic proportions. The abbey was founded prior to 1197, by Rhys
ab Gruffydd, and belonged to the Praemonstratensians, or White Canons. At its
dissolution in 1772, the great Abbey bell was sold to the Exeter Cathedral
authorities. It remains in that cathedral, and is reputed to be one of the
largest church bells in the kingdom. To the east of the Abbey stands a
solitary yew, near which tradition places the grave of Dafydd ab Gwilym. King
Henry VII. stayed a night in this village at a house still known as “The
King's Court," on his way to Bosworth Field. But to return to the Parish
of Caio. It is difficult to know whether to start the journey from the north,
climbing ridge after ridge, visiting each farm and place of interest, and
ultimately descend to the south or whether to start from the south and work
one's way gradually up the highlands. Let the traveller first visit all the
places on the south, and it is to be hoped that by then he will be
sufficiently interested to take an excursion up the hills, and see the
beauties of Craig Twrch and the surrounding country. To start from the very
south. |
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FROODVALE
is the name of two houses — the Old House and the New Froodvale. There were
formerly two mills near the Old Froodvale, one being a corn mill, the other a
Fuller's mill. A water-course, which formerly fed these mills, runs from the
Cothi to the north of the Old House, and again empties itself into the jame
river to the South of the Old House. This is the “Ffrwd.” One of the fields
near is called Cae Bach y Pandy (place where cloth, &c., was shrunk, and
another is called Maes-y-ddeuntir (Field of the tenter-frame). Though there
are no fields whose names may be connected with a corn-mill, still it is
generally thought that the word is no other than a corruption of
Ffrwd-y-felin-fal, which became Ffrwd-y-fal, hence Frood-vale. Close
by is a farm called NANT-GWINAU, which means Auburn-brook.” To
the north of these are farms known as BRYN
EINON — “Einon's hill” CWM-EINON
— “Einon's dingle.” PEN-NOETH
— “The exposed hill.” MAES-Y-GWIAIL
— “Field of the twigs.” TYN-Y-GRUG
— “House in the heather.” TYN has been reduced in modern Welsh place-names
from TYDDYN — “homestead.” Tyddyn means a house-hill, i.e. a place suited for
a house. GARTH-LWYD
— “The grey enclosure.” |
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RHOS-GOCH
— “The red moor.” Very descriptive of the land which from the large quantity
of oxidized iron in solution in the partially stagnant water has a peculiar
red or russet colour. GWARYRALLT
— “Above the wood.” ALLT is invariably used in this parish for “wood,"
or “grove," whereas in North Wales it means a “slope” or “up and down
hill.” HAFODMAITH
— “Lengthy summer abode.”Otherwise HAFODMAIDD
— "Summer abode of whey and curds.” YNYSAU
— Islands. CRUGYBAR
— “The tump of contention," or CRUGYBAR
— “The tump of the summit.” The
well-known hymn-tune Crugybar is called after this place. The hymnologist
Dafydd Jones, o Gaio, who translated Watts' hymns into Welsh is buried inside
the modern chapel. The
next farm to Brondeilo, in the parish of Caio, is MAESLLANWRTHWL, “field of
the Church of St. Gwrthwl.” When his reverence flourished is unknown. There
is also a Llanwrthwl in Breconshire. Gwrthwl probably means “Gwyrthiol"
or “miraculous.” This "Maes" may have belonged to the chapel of
Teilo above-mentioned. GLANYRANNELL — “ANNELL” is the name of a small river.
“On the banks of the Annell.” CADWGAN
— This may have been named after Cadwgan ab Bleddyn who expelled Rhys ab
Tewdwr from the Deheubarth and after Rhys's death in 1093 his |
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son,
Gruffydd ab Rhys, possessed only one Cwmyd
— the fourth part of the
Cantref, of Caio, in the Cantref Bychan. TN'NYPYLLAU [sic] — TY-YN-Y-PYLLAU
House in the pits.” GOLEUGOED
“Thinly-planted wood” or “light (coloured) wood.” BORTHYN
— “Gate-way.” MELIN DOLAU-COTHI — “Dolau-Cothi Mill.” . |
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DOLAU-COTHI - "Meadows on the banks of the Cothi.” This mansion is
the residence of Lieutenant-General Sir James Hills-Johnes, G.C.B., V.C.,
Lady Hills-Johnes, and Mrs Johnes. Here are preserved many very interesting
antiquities. Among them are some hot-air pipes with peculiar perforations, a
stone palette with colour still adhering to it, bricks, Samian ware, glass,
bones, oyster-shells, and a cinerary urn containing burnt bones. The above
were all removed from the remains of a Roman hypocaust, which are in a field
not far from the mansion. At present only the foundation wall of two rooms,
with a small portion of mosaic pavement, are visible. There was probably here
a station for the protection of the adjoining mines. The site is called Tre
Gôch y Deheubarth — the Red Town — the appellative côch being considered to
have reference to the colour of the tiles, and of frequent occurrence in the
line of Roman roads. Other antiquities preserved at Dolau Cothi are a stone
celt, and some spindle-whorls found in the neighbourhood: a Saxon arrow-head
found in the swamp near Rhyd-y-Saeson a hammer found under 40 ft. of debris
in the Gogofau supposed to be Roman, with a fragment of its wooden handle
impregnated with iron: an unbaked vessel, in the shape of a saucer found near
Pumpsaint Gate, perhaps a fining-pot for washing gold-dust: a gold
chain-fibula found in Cae Garreg Aur, under the wood in Penlan Dolau an
unfinished intaglio supposed to represent Meleager," fixed in cement for
the purpose of engraving — it was found in the upper surface of a coarse
common pebble dug out of a gravel pit for road material: a double handed
sword found in the river near Rhyd-odin (Edwinsford, the residence of Sir
James Drummond, Bart.) a pendent relic from Talley Abbey, oval in form and
about four inches in its greatest length, consisting of a Maltese cross
carved in ivory, having in its centre a small medallion of the Crucifixion,
and contained within a case of silver and glass. It was brought from Talley
Abbey at the time of its dissolution, 1772, together with the altar-piece of
the Church. This latter, a picture of Elijah fed by the ravens, said to have
been by Cimabue or Giotto, has been lent and lost. Ornaments — made after
early British examples from gold — found in the Gogofau during workings in
1870. Three inscribed stones, described by Professor Westwood in the
Archaeologia Cambrensis for 1856. 1. A monumental stone of Paulinus found at Pant-y-polion (in this
parish), which name is a corruption of Pant Polion or Paulinus, and bearing
the following inscription: — SERVATVR FIDÆI PATRIÆQVE SEMPER AMATOR. HIC PAVLINVS IACIT CV(LT)OR
PIE(NTI)SSIM(VS ÆQVI). The letter in the brackets are lost. Paulinus was the founder of the
College at Ty Gwyn ar Daf (Whitland) in Carmarthen-shire, and the instructor
of Saints David and Teilo, both of whom are commemorated in this immediate
neghbourhood the one at Brondeilo (afore-mentioned), the other both at the scene
of their joint services in behalf of the Orthodox Faith, when Paulinus and
Dewi successfully withstood the advance of Pelaganism at the Synod of
Llanddewi-brefi, 519, and at Llanycrwys. Both of these are to the North of
this parish. 2. TALO(RI) ADVEN(TI) MAQV(ERAGI FILIV(S). This name of MAQVERAGI is believed by Dr. Haigh to have been found by
him on an Ogham stone at St. Florence in Pembroke-shire. 3. A stone inscribed P.CXXV. and indicating the number of passus which a
porticular portion of the legion had constructed in the Roman road. Near the Lodge leading to the Gogofau is a large barrow or tumulus
covered with larches, and having a platform and ditch surrounding its base.
Within a few yards stands Carreg Pumpsaint, a large block of sand-stone
shaped like a basalt column with several hollows on its sides, to which there
attaches a curious legend: — |
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“Time out of mind there lived in the neighbourhood of Caio
five saints who had a wide reputation for sanctity, and were therefore
objects of ill-will to a wicket magician who dwelt in caverns somewhere near.
He had in vain tried to bring them into his power, until one day they
happened to be crossing the Ogofau, and he by his enchantments raised an
awful storm of thunder, lightning, and hail, which beat upon and bruised the
saints, and they laid their heads against a large boulder standing near them
for shelter. So great was the force of the storm that the impression of their
heads can be seen to this day upon the four sides of the stone. From the
sacred mark it bears it is called Carreg Pumpsaint. The enchanter transported
the saints into his caverns, where they sleep. Tradition says they will wake
and come back to the light of day when King Arthur returns, or when the
Diocese is blessed with a pious Bishop. (The Diocese has been thus blessed,
therefore it is evident they will have to wait for King Arthur.)" The caverns in the legend were the Ogofau, and the stone is
regarded by Mr H. Henry Knight as having been a sort of mortar for crushing
the ore. The hollows on its sides may have been to receive the lifters with
heavy iron heads for pounding. The water-course which worked the machinery at
the Ogofau gold-mines would carry the pounded ore into troughs through
gratings below. The pass or spout leading the rough ore into the knocking or
stamping mill was supprted by two oblique rafters or boards called in carpentry
sleepers.”
Mair o'r Vynachlawg Vanawg* a vyn Groesi holl Gaio, a'i bro a'i bryn Dewi o Lan y Crwys**
vlodeuyn Caio, Ei rhoi hi iso val glân rhosyn. Sawyl*** a ChynwylI****
gwench ucho hyd A'i Pumpsaint hefyd, rhag cryd neu gryn*****; Ceitho'n cloi yno Clynyn dros Gaio, Hefyd Gwnaro, Gwynio, a
Gwyn. One of thess Saints appears to have a special
commemoration, hut under a female appelative in "Ffynon" and
“Clochdy Gwenno:" the latter an isolated rock standing up in the midst
of the great gold excavations, and making their depth in that particular
place. The well had in the good old times a high reputation for healing virtues.
It has also its legend — “On an unfortunate day Gweno was induced to explore
the recesses of the cavern beyond a frowning rock, which had always been the
prescribed limit to the progress of the bathers. She passed beneath it, and
was no more seen. She had been seized by some superhuman power, as a warning
to others not to invade those mysterious 'penetralia;' and still on stormy
nights, when the moon is full, the spirit of Gweno is seen to hover over the
crag like a wreath of mist. “ Although the actual position of Ffynon Gwenno has been lost
sight of, there are local features which give the legend a special
significance. A little below the rock a bubbling stream, which comes through
one of the Roman levels, suddenly disappears into the ground *Talley Abbey to which Caio was appropriate. **Llanycrwys Church, dedicated to St. David, another
appropriation. ***Sawyl — Llansawel another, and still held with Caio. ****The patron saint of Caio, hence Cynwil Gaio. *****Ague and palsy were diseases here deprecated. |
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and is entirely lost sight of, so that we can well understand
the imagery of its spirit being wafted up in the mist to a lovely rock which,
from one particular spot on the opposite side of the dingle, may be seen to
bear the unmistakeable likeness of a human face. Near are the Gogofau or ancient gold mines. Vast open
workings, some 200 yards by 150 yards, had been formed by the Romans by
excavating the hill-side in pursuit of the vein. The sides of these again
were covered by masses of debris tilted over from other workings higher up,
and these covered a space of many acres in extent In other places the vein
had been followed from the surface by cutting a deep nanow channel downwards
along its course. In others adit-levels and cross-cuttings had been driven to
intersect the lodes. Some of these levels show remarkably good workmanship.
The highest of all is 170 feet in length, 6 ft. in height, and 4 ft. broad,
cut with great evenness out of the hard rock The lowest is of the same
height, but much narrower and with a rounded. instead of a square top. These
are certainly of Roman workmanship; but whether the large open ones are Roman
or British is not so clear — most likely they are British. The crushed ore
appears to have been further pounded by means of querns, of which an unusual
number has been found in the neighbourhood, and the water for washing it was
brought from the upper course of the Cothi in a channel from 2 to 3 ft. wide,
carried with great engineering skill along the mountain sides for a distance
of nearly ten miles. The spot from which it starts in the river goes by the
name of Pwll Uffern (Cothi) —
“Bottomless.”
From Pumpsaint through the Ogofau over Rhiw'r Cyrff (the
hill of the corpses) we get to the village of Caio, which lies in a deep
valley, and whose chief feature is its church. It is a double parallelogram,
with a tower at the west-end of the nave. This tower is a characteristic
feature of the churches of this part of the country. It is lofty and
battlemented, has a narrow corbel table near the top, and a wide batter at
its base, and the stair-turret projects from the north-east angle. Date, 1717.
The inscribed stone read by Professor Rhys as REGIN FILIVS NV(V)INTI, which used to form the door-sill, is now fixed in an
upright position on the outside north wall of the church. |
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CEINCOED — CAE-YN-Y-COED — “Field in the wood.” GWLADEITHA — “The furthermost country.” GWAUN-FELIN — “Mill meadow," or GWAUN-FELEN — “Yellow
meadow.” TAL-DRE. — “Above the town.” BEUDYAU — “Cowhouses.” CEFNGAROS — CEFN CAE RHOS — “Ridge of the field in the
marsh.” |
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PANTCOY-CAU — “Hollow low place.” The notorious wizard of
Cwrtycadno (dyn hysbys) lived and died here. TROEDYRHIWNAWPANT — “Foot (of
the) hill of nine hollows.” FRONGOCH — “Red side-land.” GARTHUNTY — “An enclosure (with) one house (on it).” PENLANWEN — “Top of the white field.” LLUEST-BRYN-SERTH — “Cottage on the steep hill.” BRYNARAUDUON — Probably "the dark (black, peaty)
ploughed land on the hill.” TWRCH (river) literally "pig," hence
"burrower," twrch daear — a mole. Now the very north has been reached, and there only remains
Craig Twrch to be explored. The mountains are tremendous, rising almost perpendicularly
from the banks of the Twrch on each side. Along this ridge are a series of
carns, which are marked on the Ordnance Survey as Carn, Carnau, Carn, Carn
Fawr, Carn Fach. Esgair Fraith, which is a shoulder ef Craig Twrch, rises
from a swamp, and commands a magnificent sweep of the county of Cardigan. The
opposite side of the mountain being a steep precipice, and the ridge not
well-adapted for occupation, this the north-western side is bright, sunny,
and commanding a very Paradise of the wild and free. Here the face of the
slope |
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is covered with stones, arranged with unmistakable method;
and although quantities lie about in utter confusion, yet the larger stones
remain [in] position, forming the outlines of circles, polygons, and squares.
These are most numerous along the lower portion of the slope, where, not
interfered with for the enclosure wall, as if the action of weather had been
less destructive there than higher up. Along the top two parallel platforms
appear to run, and these are covered with the debris of huts, and in one or
two places the remains, apparently, of cromlechs. Further on again, similar outlines are visible on the face
of Craig Pillbo, the escarpment of which forms a natural terrace of defence.
Still further, on a. curious outcrop of the native rock, a section of old red
sandstone, rises up in fissured and furrowed walls 10 to 15ft. high, and has
received the appropriate name of Cerrig Cestyll (Castle Stones). At the base
of the rock lie the scattered remains of a cairn. Cairns are very numerous
upon the hill and further west are several conspicuous monoliths, such as the
Hirfaen and Byrfaen. The largest and most important of the Cairns is that
named “Y Garn Fawr," a great stone mound raised on the highest point of
Craig Twrch, and commanding a magnificent panorama of the surrounding country
for an average radius of 30 miles or more. The base of the Cairn appears to
have measured 36ft. in diameter, or including the enclosing dyke a diameter
of 52ft. Owing, however, to time and man, the upper portion has fallen away
and another has been employed for the construction of an abutting sheepfold.
At the base of the slope on the western side of Cerrig Cestyll is a group of
no less than five Cairns of which only the bases now remain. All of them have
been disturbed, and some of them almost entirely removed. They have no surrounding
ditch and their average diameter is about 25ft. In one only was a cist found
a few years ago, and in that a double grave with a bottom of prepared clay,
but no sepulchral remains of any other kind. Carreg y Bwgi (Goblin's Stone) further to the west and
close to the line of the Roman Read is like Garn Fawr surrounded by a ditch
within which lies the stone from which it takes its name. This now lies flat
but whether it once stood erect, or was only the large cap-stone of a
Cromlech, of which the supporters have been removed, it is impossible to say.
The Cairn called Garn Fawr to the north-west of the farmhouse of
Brynarauduon, is a large stone platform of about 50ft. in diameter, with a
raised cairn in the centre in which it is possible the cist may be found
undisturbed although the surrounding portion has been carried away for
walling and road material. A smaller one of 25ft. diameter, a little to the
south has been almost entirely carried away and near it is an eliptic circle
about 45ft. by 36ft at the greatest length and breadth, formed of a stone
rampart 6ft in width. Whether this ever formed an outer line of a large
cairn, carted away for agricultural purposes, or whether it retains its
original character cannot be stated. |
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There
is a very interesting feature of another kind; on the hill of Brynglas
between the ravines of Cwm Pysgottwr Fach and Cwm Pysgottwr Fawr. The hill
rises in a portion of its line to a conical form and here the corona is
curiously ridged, and looks as if a furrow had been drawn at right angles
across the apex, and then on each side of it other furrows made broad at the
middle and gradually, narrowing as they came near the central one, until at
last them seem to join each other and be carried continuously around the
hill-top in an enlarging circle. They are considered to be the remains of
early ploughing, and other examples of this kind have been found along this
extensive range. It is inferred that the remains on Brynglas belong to a very
early period, and we are led to ask whether they may not have been the work
of the builders of the adjacent cairns, and of the occupants of the hut
dwellings on Craig Twrch. The entire absence of metal and, indeed, of any
implements whatever, removes them at once back beyond the range of history,
and can only be assigned to the "Stone Age.”
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o̱, U̱ u̱, (w), Y̱ y̱
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